Wednesday, January 12, 2011

Its mid January, cold, dark, rain, snow, sleet and its time for soup

I have made two of these soups today waiting for the weather to clear long enough to take the dog for a walk so I can say from immediate experience the soups are good and fairly easy.

CREAM OF TOMATO BISQUE SOUP

This is amazingly easy and can be made in the winter when there are no good, sweet fresh tomatoes available. It does require an initial simmer time that makes it not quite instant but it is worth it as it mellows the acidity of the tomatoes and blends the flavors.

INGREDIENTS:
2 - 14.5 ounce cans diced tomatoes
2 cups chicken broth (or good vegetable broth)
2 tablespoons butter
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, pressed or minced
2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano or 1 tablespoon dried
2 tablespoons sugar
1 pinch baking soda
Salt and pepper
2 cups half and half
1 tablespoon butter
Shredded or shaved Parmesan cheese

Bring the stock to a boil with the canned tomatoes, including juice, and reduce to a simmer. In a frying pan melt 2 tablespoons of butter and fry the onions over medium high heat until they are clear and soft. Add the garlic and oregano and fry 2 more minutes. Add the contents of the flying pan to the simmering tomatoes, and then add the sugar, soda and salt and pepper and simmer covered for 45 minutes. Take off the heat and add the tablespoon of butter and stir. If pieces of tomato or onion in the soup are too large you can use an emersion hand blender and partially blend the soup, or add a cup or two to a blender, and then return it to the pot. When the butter is melted and combined and you are pleased with the texture and thickness, add the half and half. Do not allow the soup to come to a boil. You can serve the soup immediately with a healthy spoonful of Parmesan cheese.

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GREEK LEMON SOUP

This is the easiest and quickest version of our family favorite. You can make the stock yourself and it adds a wonderful richness to the soup. When I am in a real hurry I buy a pre-cooked rotisserie chicken from the local grocery deli and add the cooked meat just before serving. All is fair.

INGREDIENTS:
8 cups (2 quarts) chicken broth
¾ cup raw rice
2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into ¼ slices
3 eggs
1/3 cup lemon juice
2 teaspoons lemon zest
salt and pepper
2 teaspoons fresh or 1 teaspoon dried thyme

Bring the stock to a boil. Add the rice and reduce the heat to medium and summer uncovered for 15-20 minutes until the rice is just tender. Add the chicken and cook until done but not overdone and tough, about 10 minutes. In a separate bowl whisk the eggs until very smooth. Add the lemon juice and zest. Whisk a cup of the hot broth slowly into the egg mixture. When combined, whisk another cup into the bowl. Reduce the heat under the soup to low and add the egg/lemon mixture to the soup, whisking in the pot while it thickens. Heat on low for a few minutes and season with salt and pepper and thyme.

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CREAM OF ARTICHOKE SOUP

This is a wonderful, delicate soup that we first had at Duarte’s Tavern and Restaurant in Pescadero, off Highway 1 just north of Santa Cruz. You sometimes have to wait in line for this and once I couldn’t get it because the kitchen did not get any fresh artichokes the day before and the cook refused to use canned artichokes (and I agree with him!) It is a little more complicated than the two other soups above but it is elegant and well worth the steps.


INGREDIENTS:
Enough water to cover the artichokes in a large stockpot
1 tablespoon lemon juice or 1 lemon sliced in half, juice squeezed into the boiling water and the two halves added.
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 cloves garlic, cut in half
2 tablespoons roughly chopped shallots, green onion, or mild onion or 1 tablespoon dried
3 lbs artichokes (3-4 medium, washed, trimmed at the top and of thorns)

2 cups chicken stock
1 tablespoon potato flour
1 cup half and half
1 teaspoon pepper
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon dried thyme or a sprig of fresh thyme

Bring the water to a boil with lemon juice or the halved lemon, salt, oil, garlic and onion. Add the artichokes and cover and cook at a hard simmer for 30 – 40 minutes, or until a fork easily pierces the heart. Remove the cooked artichokes and drain them until they are cool enough to work with. Strain the water through a sieve and recover the garlic. Remove the hearts and stems from the artichokes and set aside the leaves. Puree the hearts in a blender with I cup of the chicken stock. Slice the tender parts of the leaves off, (you can use the flat of a knife to scrape the flesh from the leaf ends and then chop it) and add to blender and puree with the garlic. You may have to add the other cup of stock if it is too thick for the blades to turn. Pour out one cup of the puree into a bowl and add the potato flour, whisking constantly. Pour the cup of liquid back into the blender and process again until smooth. Pour into a pan and add the remaining stock, salt and pepper, half and half and thyme and heat but do not allow it to boil.

Serve the soup plain or with Crème Fraiche (strongly recommend this.) 2 methods: #1 - 1 cup heavy cream mixed with 1 tablespoon buttermilk in a sauce pan, heat to about body temperature, 90 degrees, and place in a covered jar overnight at room temperature or #2 - 1 cup heavy cream whisked until smooth with 1 tablespoon sour cream, can be used immediately.)

If you are daring or ambitious, and I really, strongly recommend that you do try this authentic Duarte’s option: Take two cups of the Artichoke Soup after it is complete and return to the blender and add: 2-4 canned, roasted, whole, mild, seeded green chilies (Ortega brand is reliable, 7 ounce can has 5 whole chilies) and blend and return to a separate pan and reheat. To serve, pour the artichoke soup in a bowl, half full and carefully pour an equal portion of the green chili blend to the center or side, and then drizzle with the crème fraiche. You will not regret this culinary choice!

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